Sikhism :Through the eyes of a Believer

 

In our series of spiritual walks we conducted a walk to  the Gurudwaras of Delhi which covered two main Gurudwaras –Sis Ganj Sahib and Bangla Sahib. It came out to be a great walk with a good number of participants . The walk enthusiasts were made aware of various aspects of  Sikhism .

Introduction

Earlier these Gurudwaras were called Dharamshalas but from the times ofGuru Hargobind Singh ji  these came to be known as Gurudwaras .Guru as in  a teacher (Sri Guru Granth Sahib) and Dwara a in place

Guru Arjan Dev ji the fifth guru of the Sikhs  in 1604 compiled the Guru Granth Sahib ;which comprised of not only his hymns and teachings but also the teachings of other Indian saints and Sufis .The first copy of Shri Guru Granth Sahib wasplaced in Amritsar .

In 1708 ,Guru Gobind Singh installed the Granth Sahib as his eternal Successor hence the Sikhs consider the Granth Sahib as their only guru .

Philosophy and Belief

·         Sikhism has no place for symbolism  or idols

·         there is no priestly order  as Guru Gobind Singh  abolished this system It has only custodians of the Guru Granth Sahib

·         It condemns blind rituals like Fasting.visiting Pilgrimages and superstitions.

·         It preaches that people of different races  and religion are all equal

·         Sikhism teaches the message of devotion and rememberance of God at all times ,truthful living,equality of mankind and denounces superstitions and blind faith .

 Sikh Code  of conduct

When entering a Gurudwara we need to keep in mind certain codes

·         No one should enter a Gurudwara premises without first removing our shoes and socks

·         Men and Women should cover their head

·         All tobacco products and drugs should not be taken inside

·         To pay homage one should kneel down and bow and not lie flat.

Hence, "Any human being who faithfully believes in: (i) One Immortal Being, (ii) Ten Gurus, from Guru Nanak Dev to Guru Gobind Singh, (iii) The Guru Granth Sahib, (iv) The utterances and teachings of the ten Gurus and, (v) the baptism bequeathed by the tenth Guru, and who does not owe allegiance to any other religion is a Sikh." (Reht Maryada, Sikh Code of Conduct)

                             

Architectural features of a Gurudwara  

   

                        Talking of the Gurudwara architecture  it can be said that It is a pot pouri of the best features picked from the mughal style and the Rajput style of architeature.

• Mughal Style:Onion Shaped Dome ,Arches ,Inlay  Work and Frescoes
• Rajput Style :Bracket supported Eaves,Chhatries and Oriel Windows
• Use of water although seen in Mughal and Rajput architecture has been used in a more lively manner .

Architectural Elements in a Gurudwara

• The main requirements of a gurudwara is a room (square, rectangular or octagonal) in which

The Adi Graanth can be placed and second a Sadh Sangat which can be seated to listen to path

• TheGurudwara generally has entrances on all four sides signifying that God is omnipresent .However if there is space constraint it can be avoided also.

The Dome – It is the crowning feature of the Gurudwara .Mostly ribbed,the dome is white in color Floral base with an inverted lotus on top from which the purna kalash rises over which is placed a Khanda.

• Generally along with the central dome there are four cupolas on each corners Minarets are usually absent .
• The height is two storeyed ,inorder to gain sufficient  elevation for the shrine

Decorative Elements in a Gurudwara

·         Jaratkari or Jadau Work intricate in-lay work is both a very expensive and time consuming technique of studding semi-precious and colored stones into marble slabs .

·         Tukri work –ornamentation is done by means of colored and mirrored glass as well as semi precious stones.

·         Frescoes ,depicting popular episodes from the lives of the 10 Gurus, are to be seen in some shrines

·         Designs employed are based on vine plant, flower ,bird and animal motifs

·         Pinjaras, delicate stone grills are used for screens, enclosures and parapets.

·         Brick, lime mortar as well as gypsum and lime concrete have been the favored materials  although red sandstone and marble have also been  used in a number of shrines

Essential features of a Gurudwara

·         The Guru :it the Holy Book and is placed in the main hall

·         The Nishaan Sahib  it is a triangular orange flag with the sikh emblem of Khanda on it

·         The Pangat –these are the free community kitchens

·         The Sangat  and

·         Golak

IT is essential to explain the Guru Throne (the place where the Sri Guru Granth Sahib is placed)

·         The Guru’s throne is always centered in the middle  front of the Durbar Hall

·         The Chandoa-Is the canopy attached high above secured to the ceiling.

·         Manji Sahib-is a small bed where the Sri Guru Granth Sahib is placed .It is rectangular in shape. It is first covered with a white sheet and three small pillows ,then the Sri Guru Granth Sahib is kept covered with  white sheet and then with rich silk cloth called Rumallas

·         The Chaur Sahib

Significance of Khanda in Sikhism

One of the walk enthusiast wanted to know the significance of Khanda in Sikhism

The Khanda is one of the most important symbols of Sikhism is   emphasized by the fact that many Sikh flags including the Nishaan Sahib have the Khanda on them.

It is  a collection of four weapons commonly used by Sikhs at the time of Guru Gobind Singh .

The weapons are:

·         A double edged sword called the Khanda sits in the middle .It symbolizes the knowledge of God.

·         A Chakkar is a circular weapon that surrounds the weapon. It indicates that God and personal life is without end and perfect.

·         Two single edged swords or kirpans crossed at the bottom and sit on either sides of the Khanda and chakkar. These represent Miri (political sovereignty) and Piri (Spiritual Sovereignty)

The weapons  have symbolic meanings. The Khanda is an important emblem in Sikhism.

SAFE DELHI ?

Stay alert even when in Meru Cabs.

This incident happened with me,on my way to the New Delhi Railway Station.
Having booked a cab from the Meru Cabs. I was really carefree, about reaching the destination but my supposed carefree journey became a near nightmare.After five minutes of sitting in the car i realised the AC was not working properly.I complained to the driver but he did not react and hence it was understood that I was going to have a tough time with no AC and temperature soaring some 44 degree celsius.
So I thought of calling the company for another cab.On call the company made efforts to help me but there was no cab in the vicinity.It was clear that i had to go to the station in the same cab only.
I was in a conversation with my daughter regarding the heat and AC not working,all of a sudden the driver started using abusive language,which was not acceptable.
Again a call was made to Meru to lodge a complaint.The executive heard me and were very polite.They asked me not to pay the cab driver but at their counter at the station.
On reaching the station the real drama started. The driver first refused to unload my luggage,with the help of the coolie I unloaded my luggage.While I was busy unloading it my daughter raised an alarm that the driver was running with one of our suitcases.I left everything and ran after him.By then the security intervened and were able to stop the cab driver who started using very abusive words for me and the women gender in particular.But he ran away the instant he could.
Now the big Question is How safe are we?
We travel in prepaid,Radio cabs thinking that they are safe but Are they?
I was able to raise an alarm but how many can be like me or infact.
How many are able to?

Fatehpur Sikri -A walk to the lost palace of Akbar

Fatehpur Sikri – A Forgotten City

The town of Fatehpur Sikri was founded by Akbar who wished to build it near the village of Sikri where a Muslim Ascetic named Sheikh Salim Chisti (1480-1572) had predicted the birth of the heir .Hence, in 1568 ,a fledging fort was erected beside a small lake and on his victorious return  from Gujarat in 1573. The Emperor officially named it Fatehpur Sikri (City of victory) .Akbar had to leave the site in 1585 and moved his capital to Lahore.

This city hence did not have a long life, but is a testament to the happy period of Indo- Moslem union. The fusion between redundant Hindu figurative decoration and the Moslem geometrical patterns express the tolerance and syncretism in art that characterized the enlightened reign of Akbar.

Fatehpur was a manifestation of emperors architectural ideals and in that guise resembles certain European Renaissance cities: overlooking gardens wide courtyards. It was planned as a cultural, commercial and administrative centre of the empire .The 6 kms long wall enclosed the city from north to south.

The Ground plan of Fatehpur Sikri

Gateways  

Fatehpur Sikri had nine gateways

The Lal ,The Akbarabad Darwaza,The Suraj, The Gandhar, The Gwalior Darwaza ,The tehra darwaza ,The Ajmer Darwaza The Delhi Darwaza .

The Gateways are all identical in design but the Agra Gateway is the best preserved and most frequently used by the modern tourist

 Agra Gateway, The entry point to Fatehpur

Inside the Agra Gate, there is a pentagonal enclosure known as the Caravan Serai,

.To the right, behind it is the pavilions made of red sandstone –Tansen Baradari.

The road from Agra Gateway runs through wall enclosure –Naubat Khana .It was a place where drums were beaten to make important announcements and to herald the emperor’s in Diwan-i-am. 

After passing through it, royal stables and a huge structure with rubble masonary walls-taksal is seen .It was the workshop or Karkhanas where goods were made and gold coins were minted.

The proper palace begins with the Diwan-i-Am.

The pavilion of the Diwan- I-am is a projecting structure and has five equal arches to the front and on either sides were stone screens carved in fine geometrical pattern.

The style of architecture was heavily influenced by Hindu architecture . The geometrical pattern of jallis are the only Islamic feature ,the construction is Trabeate and has chajjas derived from temples.

The Daulat Khana court is the nucleus of the emperor’s private apartment. The Daulat Khana comprised of

• Diwan –i-Khas
• Diwan-I Khana-I Khas
• The Khwabgah
• The Anup Talao
• The Turkish Pavilion and many other minor structures

Diwan –I –Khas

The Diwan-I –Khas is a lavishly Guajarati style pavilion and is free standing ,two storeyed with balconies and traditional chhatris .The outstanding feature of this building interior is the central pillar with serpentine brackets which bear a circular platform connected by narrow bridges to the corners . The transition from square to rectangular block in its shaft  is a characteristic of Hindu approach but the introduction of Persian motifs (floral and chevron)pattern was the evolution of Islamic Architecture.

Richly carved pillars in Diwan I Khas

Ankh Michauli

This building meaning Blind man’s buff was a place where Akbar played this game with his wives.

The Astrologer’s seat

is a luxur

ious work of stone .It is decorated with festoons supported by makaras- the mythical aquatic Hindu monster.

Diwan –I –Khanai –Khas

This is a two chambered pavilion .The eastern chamber was richly decorated and the faintest outlines of floral designs are still seen.The window on the southern wall was the opening  from which the emperor showed  himself to his subjects everyday.

The chamber on the first floor was the Khwabgah or retiring room.

Anup Talao

Anup Talao situated in front of the Khwabgah was one of the most mentioned tanks. It was a square of red sandstone with a beautiful platform enclosed by a jailed balustrade in its centre. The platform was connected to the sides by 4 causeways that were supported on stoned pillars with bracketed capital.

Imperial Harem

The most famous section of the Harem Serai are The house of Maryam Zamani known as the Golden House for its frescos enhanced with gold leaf and the nearbyJodhabai Palace. It also had the Panch Mahal.

Maryam Zamani Palace

This building shows the Guajarati influence and is built around a courtyard.

Jodhabai Palace

       

  

It is the largest and the most important buildings of the harem serai having a single enterace facing east .

Interiors of the Jodhabai Palace

The interiors of the palace was decorated with balconies supported by ornate projections, niches with geometrical patterns ,pilasters and beams with hanging capital .The niches were used for wardrobes and shelves.

Hence, Jodhabai Palace is a good place to study the different architectural styles.

The Palace is built in sandstone with blue enameled tile detail; the decoration probably from Hindu masters ofGujarat .The bases, columns and capitals are carved in Hindu manner and the plan draws inspiration from Raj put tradition.

Against the exterior wallof Jodhabai Palace is Hawa mahal (breeze palace).This is a jail construction designed to permit good air circulation ,beside which a screen ed viaduct leads to Hiran Minar.

House of Birbal

One of the most ornate palaces was called the House of Birbal one of the Hindu ministers of Akbar .There were 4 rooms and two entrances on the ground floor and bay windows on the upper floor . Additional features were overhangs and projections and the whole house was profusely decorated with Hindu motifs.

 

Panch Mahal

The Panch Mahal is an extraordinary structure, entirely columnar, having 4 storey’s of decreasing size. The ground floor has 84 columns an auspicious number of Hindus. On the first floor no columns are alike .Some are circular withtiny blossoms, other octagonal with floral and fauna patterns. The lasfloorwas made of chhatries. It is typically a Hindu structure. 

Jami Masjid and Chisti Monument

The grandeur of Fatehpur Sikri is  completed by the Jami Masjid built in 1572 entered by the Badshahi Damask and Buland Darwaza.The Badshahi Darwaza or the King’s doorway was used by Akbar to join the congregational prayers in Jama Masjid.

The Buland Darwaza is described as Akbar’s most arrogant assertions. Though it has many Hindu embellishments, but its pointed arches and simple geometry mark the return of Mughal Architecture. The plain red sandstone spandrels are framed in white marble. The apex of the central arch is a flower –like ornament inlaid in white marble .Within the three great cartouches are verses from Quran in Naksh letters. It celebrates the conquest of Gujarat.

Jami Masjid

The square courtyard is bordered with a line of porticos with chhatries offering accommodation cells to pilgrims. The single iwan in front of the prayer hall hides the three cupolas decorated with painted arabesque.

The fusion of the figurative decoration and geometrical pattern of Moslems is an expression of tolerance of Akbar. The columns made from the differently sized sections inside the mosque were inspired by traditional architecture of Hindu temples.

   

  

The prayer hall has pointed arches. There are three mihrabs in each of the seven bays. The central mihrab is pentagonal and is covered by a semi-dome with tradional decorative art. The mimbar to the right has three steps[s in marble.  The roof of the hall is supported on corbels rather than squinches. More of Hindu architectural form is seen in the Mosque.

SheikhSalim Chisti Tomb

The tomb of Sheikh Salem Chisti is a white marble tomb of the Sufi saint, within the JamaMasjid complex. The single storey structure is built around a central square chamber; it has the grave of the saint, under an ornate wooden canopy encrusted with mother of pearl. Surrounding it a covered pathway for circumbulation; with carved jalis, stone pierced screens all around with intricate geometric design. Another feature of the tomb are the pillars around the Dargah. Serpentine brackets spring from the shaft and the spaces between the curves are filled with jallis

The tomb is topped by a dome and thirty six small domed chhatries and contain a number of graves, some are unnamed, all descendants of Salem Chisti.

The marble screens encircling the tomb offer a sober pattern of hexagons enclosed within an interlacing eight foil ornament, which inturn enfolds an elaborate eight pointed star. The early morning sun produces the most beautiful shadows rarely experienced elsewhere.